A Reigny of Terroir

In a little place called Reigny, in a pleasant circle of hills about seven kilometres from Sancerre we found ourselves in the company of  Gilles Guillerault of the Domaine des Caves du Prieure one of a number of wineries in the Rue du Lavoir.  He is one of the independent artisan vignerons that we like to support.   Gilles is rather like the celebrated Gérard Boulay in that he believes that the wine should come from caring for the grapes and the terroir rather than from the wine making.  He uses only natural yeasts and his use of oak is very subtle and balanced.  Gilles lets the natural product do the talking rather than interfere too much.  Thus this Reigny wine is a Reigny of terroir (like most bloggers I can’t resist a pun!).  

Gilles Guillerault introduces us to his wines.

Reigny is a hamlet of Crézancy-en-Sancerre (postcode 18300) which is one of the fourteen villages allowed to grow grapes for the Sancerre Appellation. The Domaine des Caves de Prieure  grow both Sauvignon Blanc for the white wines and Pinot Noir grapes for the Rosés and Red wines.  They have a higher proportion of Pinot Noir than most Sancerre producers and thus their Rosés and Reds are important for them.  They use a mixture of stainless steel and wood for the ageing in their small but beautiful cave.  The previous owner of our house in Veaugues, Gérard, was a stone mason and he introduced us to this winery and he helped renovate their caves and participated in the annual harvests.

A visit to the caves that Gérard helped renovate

Barrels of wine being aged in the cellar.  At the end you can see a work by a local artist whose art also features on the wine labels.

If you want to visit them they are open most days (appointment only on Sundays) between 9.00 and 12.15 and between 14.00 and 18.30.  They are relatively easy found by heading towards Sancerre on the D22 fro Crezancy-en-Sancerre and then turning left following the signs towards Reigny.  They are at No.2 Rue du Lavoir shortly after you past the Lavoir itself.   You need to drive past Daniel Ducroux but if you reach Daniel Millet you have gone too far.  Normally you have to ring the bell and wait a little.  We got lost cycling there using Google Maps so look out for a sign to Reigny before turning.

Jane and the bicycles beside the lavoir.   For the uninitiated a lavoir is where women used to spend most of their time washing their family's clothes before the washing machine led to their liberation.  However, most French villages keep them restored as a back up!

But what about the wines -

The White Wines (Sauvignon Blanc) -

Panseillot Blanc 2014 – Pair this with some good friends who been lightly baked in the sun for a few hours and are in need of refreshment.  A great value Sancerre at less than ten Euros a bottle so I bought some.

Chassenoy Blanc 2011 – If you are a fan of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc don’t even bother to try this wine.  However, if you are a fan of terroir rather than fruit give if a go.  It reminded me of a very good Muscadet  which is not surprising as it has been left on the lees for 12 months. A perfect match for perfectly cooked scallops – both are a rarity.

Facétie Blanc 2012– I can’t believe I hadn’t discovered this wine before.  Lovely acidity which makes it a great food wine.  How about some petit friture from the local river or whitebait as a match for this?  I bought some of this.  At €15 a bottle if you buy six, I thought it good value.

The Red Wines (Pinot Noir) –

Panseillot Rouge 2013 - Aged only in stainless steel this a real quaffing red and rather a good one in that category.

Marne Rouge 2012– Named after the Lieu-Dit from which the grapes come from on the Sancerre plateau, this Pinot Noir has changed considerably from the first one we tasted in 2013.  The Marne 2006 was one of our favourite Sancerre red’s for a while and we liked its robustness and rusticity. Today the house style has changed and the result is more smooth and balanced.  The 2012 we tasted today perhaps needs a few years to get to its peak.  I think I am going to grow to like this one although they don't have a lot left. 

The Rosé Wines (Pinot Noir) - 

Panseillot Rosé 2014 - A lovely little Sancerre Rosé with the typical cherry flavour.  Nice for an aperitif or with Chinese, Indian or Moroccan dishes.  We have bought quite a lot of this over the years.

I highly recommend a visit.  There is a B&B nearby or a campsite in Crezancy which is in walking distance.

Weather Vane at the Domaine

If you can't make a visit then go to Costco as they have some of their rosé wines for sale, including magnums which are great for a party.

Rosé destined for Costco in the cellars

A few pictures from our cycle trips around the Sancerre vineyards this July:

Sauvignon Blanc grapes ripening in July.  They should be ready for harvesting in early September. 

The immaculately combed landscape of the Sancerrois.

A few pictures taken around sunset in the Veaugues vineyards.

Arable land and vines go side by side in Veagues 

Backlit vines

The vine silhouetted against the evening sky

The sun goes down with some wilder vines in silhouette

Late June in the Napa Valley for the wines of racing drivers

This was my first visit to the Napa Valley and my main reason for going there was to get some wines produced by racing drivers, motor racing being my other hobby.

My first view of the vines in the Napa Valley

Rows of vines with the Californian mountains in the background

I was on my way to Mario Andretti's winery in the Napa.  He has been producing wine since he retired in the nineties.  I still have vivid memories of seeing him race in the seventies.   

I have arrived for the tasting on Sunday morning.

They charge you for tastings in this region but if you are good enough customer you can avoid the charge.

The wine guide was in a good mood on the morning I went and we got to taste a few wines other than in the tasting we bought.  I didn't particularly appreciate the whites but the reds were rather nice.

A nice Syrah but I bought their most expensive wine!

Being California you can taste inside or outside!

The Andretti "ranch" is very Italian in style, not surprisingly as that was where Mario spent his early years.  His racing was inspired by seeing Alberto Ascari in the 1955 Mille Miglia.

The Andretti winery has a lovely Italian feel.

Some of Mario's vines.

The Sonoma Wine Trolley visits the Andretti Winery.

Up the road from the Andretti winery is the Blackbird winery with its interesting sculptures.

Avenue of trees, European style, near the Andretti winery.

An absolutely beautiful early model Ford Mustang outside of Meadowcroft wines in Sonoma where I taqsted and bought the wines of AJ Foyt.

Whilst in the area I also bought the wines of two other great racing drivers, AJ Foyt and Jeff Gordon.  I will be organising a rather special Motor Racing themed wine tasting dinner soon!

If in the area also check out the wines of Randy Lewis, another driver I saw race in Europe. Unfortunately he was closed on Sunday.

Between Napa and Sonoma is this imposing winery of Domaine Carneros

Domaine Carneros.

June 2015 - A Race between the Vines

It is early June and the Ecurie Jacques Couer bring the Course de Cote "circus" to Sancerre.   Starting in Menetreol-sous-Sancerre the course winds its way up through the vines past Joseph Mellot's winery towards the hilltop town of Sancerre.

A Sports Racing Car speeds past the Sancerre vines

Vines either side of this racing touring car competing in the Course de Cote de Sancerre.

Another car speeding past the vines, with the winery of Joseph Mellot in the background.

For more pictures of the Course de Cote de Sancerre 2015, click here.

It is June in Sancerre and the hay has been harvested but the vines and walnut trees still have a few months to go. 

But I must leave by beloved Sancerre for a wile for California and the Napa valley.  See the next post.

May 2015 - Sancerre & Pesselieres

Vineyards, Colza and Poppies as the rain clouds gather on the road from Vinon to Sancerre.

The weather was mixed when we were down in Sancerre this May.  Clouds most days and some rain but the light was good from time to time.

Working the vineyards by hand.....

...and by tractor.

There were still clouds when we took the dogs for a walk around Veaugues.  The trees here mark the road between Veaugues and Crezancy.

The Veaugues vineyards with the village in the background

The Veaugues vineyards, May 2015.

In May little bunches of grapes are beginning to form on the vines

For further pictures of how the Sancerre vineyards look and develop throughout the year click on a link below:

January 2015

February 2015

March 2015

April 2015

During our May visit we also went along to Pesselières which is a small hamlet near Jalognes which has a great mill selling oils and one of my favourite gardens in France.

They were making Walnut Oil the day we visited.

Walnuts are a local product with many walnut trees in the Sancerre area.

The mill stones are replaced about every 400 years.  This one was working until 2008.

The end product - Walnut oil.

The beautiful gardens at the Château de Pesselières

It is Iris season.

They have a new walled garden which is brilliant to see in the summer.

Surf and Turf with Old Bordeaux

To celebrate my birthday in April we had some old and new friends around and opened up some 10, 20 and 30 year old bottles of Bordeaux.  With these wines and some other white, sweet and sparkling Bordeaux I designed a "Surf and Turf menu" that Jane willingly executed.

Red Bordeaux wines from 2005, 1995 and 1985

Guests at our Bordeaux Surf and Turf dinner having an aperitif of Cremant de Bordeaux and cheese and anchovy puff pastry sticks.

First course was scallops with crispy bacon and pea purée served with an unusual Bordeaux white made with Sauvignon Gris grapes.

Second course was carpaccio of beef served on a salad of young leaves with rosemary smoked langoustine and caviar.  This was served with an exceptional Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé - a 2005 Château La Gaffelière.

Our menu

Service!   The first of our main courses was roast lamb cooked with anchovies and served with a balsamic smear and olive soil.  This was matched with our second 2005 - a Château Tour de Pez Saint Estephe.

Everyone enjoying the fine wines!

Second main course was slow cooked beef cheek with an oyster beignet.  This was accompanied by a 1995 Saint Julien - a Château Langoa Barton.  Very nice.  The crispy Oyster was wonderful!

Cheese platter of a local Dreux cheese, a Salers and an Ossau Iraty.  With this we had our 1985 Château Ducru Beaucaillou.

One of our guests, Pascal,  brought along a yummy orange and chocolate dessert cake which we served with some homemade marmalade and a 1999 Sweet White Bordeaux.

A golden dessert Bordeaux 

Our order of preference for the reds with the 1995 lagoa Barton and the 2005 La Gaffeliere coming out top

Thanks to Jane for executing perhaps our best wine tasting dinner to date.  An adventurous menu but one that worked!  Believe it or not the langoustines and fried oysters worked well with our mature red Bordeaux wines.  Be adventurous with your food and wine pairing and dare to beak the rules!